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About The Pond Guy®

We are a nationwide pond, lake and water garden supply company. With 50+ years of combined experience in Aquatics Management, our staff is here to help provide you with simple solutions for your everyday pond questions. Please feel free to comment on any of our postings and let us know if is anything we can do to help. For more information or if you have questions please visit our website at www.thepondguy.com or give us a call toll free at 866- POND-HELP.

185 Responses

  1. What I thought was a catch basin on my property in North East Florida, turns out to a spring fed pond. It was stagnant and breeding mosquitoes by the millions so I drained it only to have it fill back up. The spring seems to be right in the center of the pond area and is covered by about three or four feet of pine needles, leaves, dead branches, etc. I’d love to clean the area out and have the pond stocked but I don’t know where to even begin. Would cleaning the debris away with a digger damage the spring in any way? Should I have a drain installed and if so where? What treatment should I give the water? What fish would be best to keep the mosquitoes away? Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I’ll continue browsing the website for answers. Thank you!

    • Hi Sharon – I’m assuming this is a larger (1/8th acre or more) size pond. MuckAway bacteria and aeration would help clean the pond over time but is not a quick solution. Getting the water moving is the best mosquito control and any gamefish will also help. Keep the shoreline free or with minimal emergent weeds (cattails/grasses) as this is also a mosquito breeding area. You would need to contact a local excavation company that digs ponds for more information on dredging but that would be the quicker way to open the spring back up. I’ve also included a link to some additional pond management basics for the future. Hope this helps. https://www.thepondguy.com/product/learning-center-article-pond-care-101/learning-center-pl-pond-and-lake-101

  2. We have a pondless water feature. It’s a long stream that flows into a large basin (about 7 feet deep). We had a freeze (10 degrees) and the good news is it looked like the pump was still able to pump the cold water…the bad news is that it didn’t have much water to pump since it escaped on an ice dam. We turned off the pump and because we have a deep basin under rocks, it looks like that insulated the pump enough where no pipes froze.

    Pump is back on now, but another freeze is coming up.

    Question 1 – would it be better to keep it running and just check it with a hair dryer to prevent any ice dams OR would it be better to shut it down until warmer temps and then we wouldn’t need to worry about ice dams? Which is better for the longevity of the pump?

    Question two is – are there any practical ways to prevent ice dams?

    Note: The pump is not very accessible so removing the pump is not practical every time this happens, so if we did shut it down, the pump would just sit there, albeit in a deep basin that didn’t freeze last time

    • Hi Paul – Really if you are experiencing frequent freezing its best to just turn the pump off. If it is in a deep basin that does not freeze solid you can probably just leave the pump in place without too much issue.

  3. I fed my koi last night the water temp was at about 60 the weather dropped drastically and so the water probably did too. It’s 37 outside now and I’m afraid my fish will die since I fed them the night before when it was warm

    • Hi Stephanie – I realize this response is a few days after your original post so I hope the fish are doing well. Water temperatures do not typically drop as fast as the air temperature, especially not towards the bottom of the pond. As long as the temp did not stay consistently around freezing for several days chances are your fish will be just fine. If you haven’t already, be sure to feed less and switch to a wheatgerm food which will be easier to digest as the temperature drops.

  4. Hi! I have a koi pond with fish already in it, and want to know if it’s too cold to add fish. The pond is 28″ deep, and 4’ x 7’. The temperature outside during the day is 60°F but goes down to about 30°F at night. I have 3 koi in my aquarium inside that are getting to be a little to big for the aquarium and I can’t buy a new one. If you can get back to me, that would be great. Thanks! -Alaina

    • Hi Alaina – As long as the fish is the pond are still active showing that the water is not to cold then you should be fine. Just be sure when transferring fish from indoor warmer temperatures to outdoor, that you mix some of the pond water in a bucket with their current water so the temperature transition is slow. Give them at least 15-20 min. to adjust before releasing them into the pond.

  5. I have a half acre pond and this year it turned brown water. Its a spring fed pond and in the summer time the water gets very low but I have a creak near the pond so I can pump water into it. I was reading where you state to use Activated Carbon. but you mentioned it needs to have running water to clear the pond water. I don’t have a aeration system. What would be the best thing for me to do?

    • Hi Wilmer – This really depends on what is causing the brown water. Activated carbon will work if the water is stained but if the pond is brown from floating debris you would be better to use an aeration system or natural bacteria to help clear the pond. Generally in pond’s of your size activated carbon is not a very cost effective solution for that many gallons of water.

    • Does brown water in a half acre pond have any effect on the fish?
      I have Bream and bass.

      • Temporary brown water from leaves and sediment won’t have any short-term direct affect on the fish however over the long-term, improving the water quality will help improve their overall health and growth.

  6. I live in NYS. Our pond is completely covered with duckweed. What can I do? None of the chemicals that you suggest can be shipped to NY.

    Chuck Levey

    • Hi Chuck – Unfortunately we can not. You would need to find a licensed applicator in your area to perform a treatment for you. Depending on the size of the pond you may be able to find some relief by using a PondSkim or net to temporarily remove the duckweed from the pond’s surface.

  7. We have a new pond, 5 weeks in, 3,000 gallons with a waterfall, aerator, and skimmer. Algea is now forming on waterfall rocks. Should I clean them or wait longer until pond fully cycles? Water is still cloudy. Thanks.

    • Hi Kyle – As long as the algae is not out of control I would try to leave it as much as possible. The algae will actually help filter the water and some amount of growth will always be on the rocks and is part of a natural healthy water garden.

  8. Hi. We treated our pond with Cutrine to kill the algae. My dog drank the water the next day… he has severe diarrhea and vomiting. What are the effects of the Cutrine to the animals?

    • Hi Katie – There are no water use restrictions associated with the use of Cutrine and once absorbed by the algae it is removed from the water. As long as your dog did not come in direct contact with the chemical it is unlikely that the cutrine is the cause. Hope that your dog recovers soon and is ok.

  9. I am recently divorced, and planning a move from CT to NY to be closer to my family. I am lucky to have four koi (all about 12″ give or take) living in CT, but the CT house is going to go up for sale this Spring. I do not want to leave them at the mercy of whoever buys the house. I am very attached to my koi babies; however, I’m terrified on killing them during the move, which would be at least a 3
    Hour drive. My other fear is that the source of water at the CT house is a well, but I will have city water in NY. Will that shock them (even if I use a good /water conditioner)? Are there any koi sanctuaries? Any suggestions or expert advice would be appreciated.

    • Hi Mary – The most important thing when moving your fish is to keep them in cool water, which holds more oxygen, and keep them in the shade. You may also be able to find a battery operated bubbler for additional oxygen. I would have the new location up and running for a few weeks if possible before bringing the fish, this way the water can be conditioned before their arrival. The fish should be able to transition to the new city water but adding some of your new water into their current water when you arrive. Let them sit in the new water for a good amount of time, half hour or so, to allow them to adjust to the change of water, temperature and destress after their journey. You can also use Stress Reducer Plus to help protect them during their journey and into the new area.

  10. Have spring/rain fed pond on farm. Have pulled dead deer out. Looks to have been on there while. While I removed animal very concerned about water quality. What should I treat pond with? Yes have some small fish in there but that is not my concern, can restock.
    Given the knowledge of how dangerous thus can be I’m worried about my other farm animals and have blocked them from drinking this water for kow.

    • Hi Betty – I’m not sure of the circumstances that caused this incident to happen but as far as helping to clean the pond MuckAway or PondClear will help breakdown any organic material. You would need to contact your local health department to test the water for safe drinking.

  11. I have a pond that is about 950 gallons. I have tried everything to get it clear. No luck. What can I do

    • Hi Georgia – I will need a little bit more information to help you out. How many fish do you have in your pond and how big are they? What type of filter system do you have? Is the water brown or green? You may also want to try and get a clear glass and scoop some of the pond water out. Sometimes reflection from debris in the pond make the pond water appear colored when it isn’t. From this glass you can see if the water is green, brown or has floating debris. This will help determine the course of action to follow to get your pond under control.

  12. We recently had 14 acres hayed on our farm. Afterwards we noticed scum and algee on our pond, this was the very next day. We have NEVER had a problem with this pond until now.
    We have not had any rains nor water runoff to do this. What do you think caused the problem with the pond, and do you think someone dumped something into the pond while we were not home and having the fields hayed. Thank you for your response

    • Even though it didn’t rain 14 acres of hay could still create a lot of dust, some of which may have blown into the pond and may create a scummy look on the surface. Algae also can grow pretty rapidly, especially in the summer heat with something on the pond’s surface to attach to. If the algae is not severe I would guess that if you do get a decent rain most of this will breakup and disappear. If not you may need to do a light algaecide spray to get the algae under control.

  13. We have a spring fed pond and it seems to be getting lower over the last few years, even when rainfall is taken in to account leading me to believe the spring is not flowing as well as it used to. Is there a way to free it up? I heard you can further obstruct it by digging. Thoughts?

    • Hi Erik – If the pond seems to consistently be dropping down to the same level I would also check for muskrat or other animal tunnels that may also be causing the water level to drop. My second thought is that if the pond is older and there is an abundance of dead organic material accumulating that could be causing an issue as well. Instead of dredging or digging you may want to try aeration or natural bacteria such as MuckAway to help breakdown the dead organics. These options will also help keep the pond muck free for the future.

  14. I’m finding my goldfish in my 18ft x 10ft 3 ft deep pond with sides worn away and the entrails gone, the flesh is intact, dead! What is eating them, leaving the meaty parts intact? The fish are 1″ to 3″ in length and there’s about 130 out of 200 of them left. Could they be eating each other? I feed them three times a day until they are disinterested,but hours later they seem to act like I never feed them, it’s like they never get enough food!

    • Hi Angela – Typically fish of similar size wouldn’t pick at each other too much. Any other animal predator would mostly likely eat the entire fish if it were that small. We recently posted an article regarding fin rot. Have you noticed any red spotting or deteriorating fins on the fish that are still living?

  15. We just built a pond for our grandkids to swim in. We are concerned with swimmers itch. Is there a way to treat the water so this will not be an issue?
    We were told to put a salt block in the water, but we saw snails in the water just the other day, after the salt had been in the water for a month or so. Any help is appreciated!

    • Hi Bree – Most ponds don’t have issues with swimmer’s itch and depending on the size of the water body, a single salt block would not be enough to bring up the overall salt concentration in the pond to kill the snails. Keeping the pond well circulated and muck free is your best defense. There is no “regular” treatment to apply to the water for swimmer’s itch, just make sure they bathe after swimming in the pond. Here is some information from the CDC on swimmer’s itch.

  16. Help! We live in Texas and have a very small spring-fed pond we’ve never had this happen before but this year for some reason there seems to be almost like a red algae growing in the pond it seems to bloom during the day and in the early morning hours we don’t see it. It’s covering the vast majority of our pond and we have horses that drink out of this water occasionally. I want to know if it is safe and how we can get rid of it. Thank you. If you email me I can send you some pictures.

    • Hi Julie – There are many different species of algae, some of them have a reddish tint, and this sounds like it may be a form of planktonic algae. In small amounts it should not cause any issues but the best thing you can do is to keep the water circulating and take steps to reduce the amount of organic material in the pond. An aeration system would help with this as well as natural muck eating bacteria. The older the pond is the more organics that have accumulated from years of runoff, dead algae and weeds. The pond’s age may have something to do with why you have not see this particular type of algae occur in the past. I’m not sure what your pond maintenance plan has been up to this point but here are some articles outlining general pond life cycle and maintenance.

  17. I have a few questions…unfortunately my husband put Karmex in our one acre swimming / fishing pond before I knew it and had researched it. This was just last weekend and I havent been back to property yet to see the damage. Will be going there this weekend. My question is, is it now unsafe for my grandchildren to swim in the pond? How long does the one time usage last? And how long would I have to wait to switch to something safer? Please help..I’m not letting the kids in the pond til I find out and its a bit of a sore spot between us as the pond is why we bought the property for the kids to swim… Thank you in advance for any helpful answers.

    • Hi Christy – I’m sorry to hear of your situation, unfortunately since it is not an aquatic approved chemical there are not any guidelines I can provide as to if or when the water would be safe for use.

  18. It’s a 50 gallon pound

    • Hi Dorothy – I would recommend the TetraPond FK Series Filter it does come with a fountain set for extra water movement and can use the smaller nozzle to avoid splashing or remove the fountain set completely and just let the water recirculate.

  19. How do you keep a turtle pond clear from the green allergy

    • Hi Dorothy – Filtration is necessary even in a turtle habitat to keep it clean. Partial wanter changes may also be needed as turtles are a little messier than fish. I would also use a natural bacteria such as LiquidClear to help breakdown the waste. If you know how many gallons the pond is we can assist you with a more detailed recommendation for filtration.

  20. I’m at a loss here. I found your blog very well written and knowledgeable, thank you. I give Dragonflies of all types a place to lay their eggs & get joy of watching them grow & finally climb up out of the H2o @ night, ready for life in the air. For this I must have mosses, mucky stuff @ bottom ( for very young to hide ) & plants. I’ve been doing this for years & I now have one of my small children’s pool filled with these black ( as a moonless night ) leaches taking over & killing Everything, nymphs,snails and even larger bullfrog tadpoles( food for my Largest species of dragonfly ). I know I’m not dealing with true ponds but I was hoping & praying that maybe you could give me a few pointers or let me know of anyone who may be able to help me out with some good advice. I’m sorry to bother you with something that isn’t in your line of profession. I’ve lost so many beautiful would be dragonflies, I’m almost ready to throw up the white flag. Thank you for your time. Have a great summer!

    • Hi Emily – We are happy to help any way we can. Leeches will feed on a lot of the same food sources so that does attract them. We do have many customers that have leeches in their ponds, here is a way to you set up a trap to catch and remove them. Punch ‘leech-size’ holes in a coffee or aluminum can, bait it with raw chicken or similar bait, and position it in a shallow area of your pond. When the leeches crawl in they can not get out because the burrs from the hole punches will prevent them from escaping. Remove the can once it’s full and repeat until the leeches are gone.

  21. We have just purchased 40 acres in Kansas. We have 2 ponds 1 that is close to 3 acres and the other that is roughly 1/4 acre. The larger pond has been in existence for over 100 years and is spring fed also the previous owner has stocked it every year for the last 20 years. The other pond is more of a catch basin when the larger 1 gets to full. We have quite a bit of floating algae on the bigger pond. We would like to eliminate the algae very quickly. We are planning to expand the pond 1.5 acres and drudge it out. But we will have to wait until we are done building our home. What products do you recommend, quantity and the steps to get this done? I was going to use copper sulfate or karmex but not to sure about those products.

    • Hi Joe – I would use Algae Defense® to kill the algae. One gallon treats about 8,000 sq ft. but you only need to apply it in the pond where the algae is green and growing. It should kill the algae that is present at the time of treatment in about 7-10 days. Algae Defense® uses chelated copper so it will completely breakdown in water. I would not use any other chemicals that are designed for farm use in the pond. For long term pond health natural bacteria and aeration will work at breaking down muck that has accumulated over the years from leaves and dead weeds. You may also want to check out the Airmax® Ecosystem Video which is a good overview the pond ecosystem and maintenance needed to keep it healthy.

  22. My pond turned over and grew some kind of star shaped plant all over the top. What do I do

    • Hi Donna – We would first need to identify exactly what type of plant it is, and then could recommend a treatment for it. We have several options available to assist with identification; you can view our online weed control guide, e-mail us a picture of the weed, or mail us a sample in a dry papertowel.

  23. We would like to make our pond larger but we are concerned about killing the frogs, fish & turtles who live in it. Any advice as to how we can make it larger without that happening?

    • Hi Jennifer – This somewhat depends on the type of pond you are enlarging. If it is a water garden you can have temporary holding tanks while construction is being completed. For larger earth bottom ponds, if you are only adding to one section of the pond or digging out the edges only a partial draining may be necessary and the fish may be able to stay in the pond while frogs and turtles would likely move away from the area until habitat around the pond was reestablished. Once you talk with an excavation company about your plans they would be able to give a better idea on how to handle the construction.

  24. Can you give me advice on what strength fertilizer to use in my pond to kill back algae growth? We have 10 10 10 fertilizer I believe our pond about 3 or 4 Acres we are going to broadcast fertilizer using in our boat , the pond is about 75 years old with a whole lot of fish in it it is a shallow pond except over by the dam it may be about 20 feet thank you

    • Hi Susan – Using a fertilizer would encourage algae growth. If you are looking to reduce the amount of algae you would need to use an algaecide. You probably do not need to treat the entire 3-4 acres just the areas that have heavy algae growth. Click here for algaecide options such as Algae Defense® liquid and Cutrine Plus Granular.

  25. Hello I have a pond that I had to treat last year with an algaecide the pond was covered with algae and after a week or two it was gone just wonder now that it’s spring the pond is clean and clear of algae if you had any suggestions as to what I could spray the pond with to prevent algae growth from happening again or anything that would be beneficial for the pond this year thanks for your help

  26. Just bought some diurnal 80 from my local coop.says don’t use on water.but man said it kills pond slime.can you tell me if I can use it…how and how much?

  27. I have a quarter acre pond, spring feed. My big catfish have recently been swimming at top of water and have a jelly like substance on their heads and are dying. Do have an idea what’s going on? Never had a problem before until now. Any info would be appreciated.

    • Hi Denise – The jelly like surface could be the fish’s slime coat in overdrive trying to protect the stressed fish or the sign of an infection. If they are all at the surface it may possibly be from an oxygen issue either from warm water or from spring turnover depending on the climate you are in. Spring turnover is when the oxygen depleted water at the pond’s bottom mixes quickly with the pond’s surface. One illness that can commonly affect stressed and oxygen-deprived catfish is Columnaris (Flexibacter columnaris), also known as cotton-wool, cotton-mouth, or mouth fungus. It is a highly contagious bacterial infection that appears as white spots on the edges of the fish’s scales, fins and mouth area. If you can isolate the fish and increase the oxygen that may help. If it is a bacterial infection such as white spot you may also be able to do treatment if these fish can be isolated in a smaller tank.

  28. I plan on introducing six 7″ Koi and eight 5″ goldfish into a large pond, shallow around the edges decending to 15 feet deep in places located on 300 acres, part hay fields, part pine & oak woods my property in central TX.
    My question is how will fish new to this large body of water know to come to the surface when food is scattered?
    Before releasing the fish should I section off with nylon netting & stakess a small section of the pond to contain the fish?

    • Hi Sherry – Since this is a large pond do you know if there are other fish in there already? If so and you already feed them then chances are these new fish will follow the trend. If not just be consistent with feedings and eventually they will learn where food will be offered, though this could take several weeks. You should not need to net off a section of the pond. My only other concern is that if this is a well established pond and other fish already exist be sure they are not larger than the fish you are introducing or stock with baitfish in one end and release the new fish on the other to give them a chance to find cover.

  29. Cant find relavent info on AQUAPRO Pond Algae Blocks. Active constituent
    13.75g-kg DIURON in a 20g NET tablet

    My question is, is it harmful to my dogs if they drink the pond water?

    • Hi Matthew – With any pond treatments we suggest 24 hours whenever possible to avoid consuming undiluted product. In this case I would not allow the dogs to drink from the water, especially if this is a slow release type product which continually releases active ingredient into the waterbody. Here are some other algae treatment options that would not continually release into the water.

  30. Mine is not a comment on previous input I see, I simply have some questions and cannot find where to go to in order to ask a question on YOUR website as Mr Pond Guy!!!!!!!

  31. Hi Pond Guys!
    Would like your opinion please. We are considering purchasing a property that has a half acre ‘spring fed’ pond that appears as though it is actually fed by overflow from the neighbors spring fed pond approximately 10 yards away. The ponds are very close to each other and the property line runs along the wall seperating the two ponds. The pond property we are considering sits at a lower elevation than the neighbors and is stocked with crappie, bass and bluegill. Aerial views show these two ponds are not the same color. Their top pond is bluer and the lower pond is more green/blue. Is this a cause for concern? Our original intention was to place cattle in that spot for the water source, but due to the beauty around the pond we’ll probably build them another source of water! We know very little about ponds and want the best advice before making such a huge investment. Thank you!

    • Hi Rachel – Having a pond is great!
      A few things to consider:
      – If the neighbor’s pond runs into yours, whatever they put it in will also be in yours (meaning fish, chemicals, fertilizer runoff, etc.)
      – Pond colors can indeed vary even when very close together. Especially if there is a difference in depth and if the pond is being taken care of.

      Here’s a video on the Airmax EcoSystem which is a proactive pond management approach. Your situation is unique where your pond will be dependent upon the neighbor’s approach.

      Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thank you!

  32. Hello!
    I have a bit of problem with my pond pool.
    This is a state of the are pool. We wanted our pool to look like a pond and has a black liner.
    But in these recent weeks we also heated up the pool to 90% and ever since then when we come out of our pool the bottom of our feet are black.
    Why is this happening and I can’t understand why the installers wouldn’t know that the black liners shouldn’t be heated up to a certain temp. What should we do? We have my large boulders rocks surrounds the pool and also create significant amount of algae.

    • Hi Nicole – Sorry to hear that the liner is causing issues. Do you want kind of liner was used? There are many different types available. The liner we typically use in ponds is 45mil Fish Safe EPDM. There are also smaller thicknesses available depending on application. As for what you can do, did you get any kind of guarantee from the contractors? I would explore that route with them.

      What kind of algae is it? String algae can be brushed off and the removed from the water with a net. Are you using chemicals in the pool?

  33. Is there a product that puts a stress coat on fish, neutralizes ammonia AND chlorine? I haven’t found a company that makes an all in one but it would be nice…..Also, does Koi aclay put a stress coat on fish or just add calcium to the water and force the contaminates in the water to the bottom of the pond?

  34. I have a 120 ft x 60 ft springfed pond which is normally 3 to 4 feet deep. The pond is has a small creek that runs adjacent to it which is 15 to 20 ft away. Recently construction near my property (a housing development and roadways) caused my pond to loose a significant amount of water which coincided with their dewatering road construction across the creek. Ever since that time the pond continues to loose water despite their constant replacement. The pond has natural wildlife, sunnies and good size grass eating carp. The developer has offered to put in a well so that the pond can remain at an appropriate level. Is this a good solution? Has the natural balance been permanently disturbed and would I eventually require a liner? If yes roughly how much would it cost? Do you have any other suggestions to solve this problem.

    • HI Matt –

      Wells can be a good option for some ponds but there are costs associated to run the pump. Liners do help to keep water in. We have several types and thicknesses available to meet various needs.

      Some things to think of:
      – What kind of soil do you have? Sandy soil is going to be harder to keep water in.
      – How high is the water table?
      – Do you have an outflow? Or is the water loss due to evaporation or the soil type?

      With so many variables, I would suggest reaching out to your local branch of Natural Resources. They should be able to point you to a local pond builder or contractor in the area.

  35. Can I raise trout in my indiana farm pond along with bass bluegill crappie?
    Four acre spring feed average 8 to 9 ft deep.

    • Hi David – You can add trout to your pond but 4 acres is larger than most typical trout ponds. I would consider the following when thinking about adding trout:
      -Do you use algaecides? Any copper based algaecide can kill trout.
      -What are you summer water temperatures? Water temperatures above 70°F are not recommended for trout.
      -Do you have other forms of aeration besides the pond being spring fed? Trout are susceptible to low DO levels.
      For your size pond, I would recommend getting in touch with a local fish supplier or your local DNR to see about Trout Stocking. Thanks for your question!

  36. i have a 3acre pond 7 feet deep. I have planted catfish, bass,crappie and 50 to 60 koi 10 months ago. How do I control the algae I am currently using copper sulfate around the edge of the pond. Will this hurt my koi? Also will my koi live and grow without regular feeding. I don’t see very many swimming.

    • Hi Cathy- I would be cautious using a copper treatment with the Koi as they are sensitive to copper. For large treatments you may want to use Hydrothol 191 or Clipper as these products do not contain copper. If your water hardness is above 50 ppm and you are just treating a few small areas at a time your fish will most likely not be affected. Fish will feed off algae and weeds in the pond and will survive without regular hand feeding. In a pond of that size it wouldn’t be uncommon to not see the fish very often if they are not being hand fed.

  37. I’m laying out a pond at my home. It’s about 11 ft x 5 ft x 3 feet deep. There will be steps down for rocks and plants so the bottom will probably be about 2 feet wide by 6 feet.I plan to have a skimmer, and a waterfall filter. The waterfall will be about 5 feet in height above the water surface, and the pump will be sending the water to the waterfall through about 12-14 feet of hose…I’m figuring 1 1/2 inch hose. I plan to use a 3100 gph submersible pump for the waterfall filter. Then a smaller pump for the skimmer, which would pump water up and discharge it just below the waterfall. Based on what I’ve said here can you tell me if it’s necessary to use two pumps, or would just the skimmer pump be enough?

    Fremont NH

    • Hi Bill – There is one piece of information that I did not see in your outline and that is how wide you are making the waterfall. If the waterfall will be 1 foot wide than I would use a pump that is 1500-2000 gph at 6 ft of head pressure. Then size your skimmer and waterfall filter to handle this amount of flow and use just one pump to push water from the skimmer to the waterfall. If you want the waterfall to be wider or with heavier flow then you can use the additional pump in the pond to also pump to the waterfall for increased flow when you are viewing the pond, and then shut it off as needed. This will allow your pond to continue being filtered without the additional flow.

  38. Hello Pond guys,
    I have a natural 1.5 acre pond. I have planted lily pads for several years in the 1-3 foot depth. Each year the pond level naturally drops and eventually kills the lily pads by drying their planed areas out.
    Is there an underwater submerged ‘floating basket’ that will bob about 1-2 feet under the surface such that I can plant in this basket and the water level changes wont kill the lily pads?
    Thank you for your thoughts.

    • Hi James – Unfortunately I’m not aware of any planters that do this however if you do keep the lilies planted in a pot then you would be able to move them manually further out into the pond as the water level drops.

    • POND GUY:
      I have put dye in my 5/8 ac. pond. Can I still fertilize the pond with liquid fert?

      • Hi Ralph – Are you looking to fertilize the pond for additional weed growth or use the water from the pond to aid in fertilizing your plants? In either case pond dye is just a dye and should not cause an issue with fertilization. Just be sure it has been at least 24 hours so that the dye is mixed into the water.

  39. I live in south central TN. I just learned about putting dye into a pond, and how it can help. The pond already has floating yuck on top, that breaks off from under the water, and floats up to the top. Is it too late to put in the dye, or is there something better. It is a rain filled, water run-off pond.

    • Hi Linda – It is never to late to put dye into the pond however it will only shade the pond and won’t make the “yuck” disappear. If it is green it is most likely algae that has broken off from the bottom and floated to the surface and can be treated with an algaecide. If the debris is brown is may just be dead organic material and can be broken down with natural bacteria.

  40. i have a pre formed 125 Gallon pond, with liner. I have a aquascape water fall. In the summer here in FL i notice my water loss of 6 inch a week. I can’t find any leaks. 100% sun light. any thoughts?

    • Hi Rishi – Evaporation can account for quite a bit of water loss in a pond especially if you have a large waterfall with lots of surface area in direct sunlight. Have you tried to turn off the pump for a day to see if the water level still drops? If so then there may be a leak in the pond, continue to let the level drop until it stops and the leak will be around the ring of water. If the level does not drop then a leak may be in the plumbing or evaporation may be less due to less evaporation from water movement.

  41. Hello Pond Guy , why does a pond stay clear of floating debris ( IE ) grass clippings at night and then back in the AM Thanks Dean

    • Hi Dean – I’m not sure how grass clippings would be getting to the pond only in the morning versus night but if you have rain or a change in winds it could possibly be blowing or washing debris into the pond or if the area was freshly mowed it may be that clippings or pollen floating in the air settle on calm nights across the ponds surface.

  42. I’ve got a 1/4 pond 9 foot deep in the center and I have a watermill problem. It turns the pond green and turns the water over evry year. I’m wondering what the best pond chemical is for my problem. I’m not worried about the fish currently as they have all died off except a few. I plan to stock it next year with catfish so that gives me all summer and fall to treat it. Will diuron 80 treat it? I have four pounds of it from a catfish farmer that I worked four when I was a teen.

    • Hi Brian- I would not recommend to use that product for aquatic applications. Watermeal is a tough weed to treat, I would recommend to use Ultra PondWeed Defense or Clipper. Neither of these are harmful to the fish. Click Here for more information on watermeal and these treatments.

  43. Hi there. I have a small pond in my front yard. It is full of vegetation and I am wanting to clear it out. I don’t want to hurt or disturb any of the wildlife in or around the pond. So I was wondering if there were any easy things I could do to get rid of the swamp like vegetation? I heard ice melting salt works. But I’m not sure it’s the most environmentally sound option.

    • Hi Sean- I would not use salt for treatment of the pond, especially since most salt made for dissolving ice has other chemicals mixed in. Identification of the vegetation you need to control is key in deciding what treatments to use. View our Weed Control Guide or mail us a sample of the vegetation in a dry paper towel for identification. From there we can determine which chemicals may be needed for treatment and other solutions that will help manage the pond and keep it healthy and safe from future overgrowth.

  44. I have a half acre pond and it is going green algea quickly. How can I get rid of algea without harming my bass, blue gill, and crappies. And how do I prevent it from reoccurring?

    • Hi Pat- What you can do right now will depend on the weather in your area. If water temperatures are above 60 Degrees Fahrenheit you can treat with an algaecide and follow up with natural bacteria to help decompose the algae once dead. If temperatures have not yet reached 60 then you can lightly rake out some of the overgrowth (be cautious to not break up the algae mats as it may encourage more growth) add dye to shade the pond, and use EcoBoost to help bind excess phosphates. Both dye and EcoBoost do not have any temperature restrictions.

  45. We have a duck pond that I have to break the ice on every morning. I am wondering about adding some salt, but don’t know how much salinity the ducks can take. They are Pekins. The pond does get some Sun but usually freezes again during the day. We are in Northern Maryland.

    • Hi Dave – Unfortunately I would not recommend to use any de-icing salt to melt the ice. While the salt itself may not be harmful in low doses common salts used to break up ice may contain cyanide or other harmful chemical additives. Instead I would recommend using a hot bucket of water to remelt the hole open in the ice or depending on the size of the pond you may be able to use a small aerator which will create surface agitation making it more difficult for the ice to form.

  46. Hi, so I made this small backyard pond this year and am leaving my goldfish and couple Koi out this winter. Not sure about leaving my small aerator on, pond is about 1400 gallons, and there are about 60 small goldfish and 2 small KOI . . I am in the Toronto Ontario locale.
    Thoughts? Should I leave it on or turn off for the remaining winter months? The pond has frozen over once already and I got a de-icer, but still unsure about teh aerator. ??


    • Hi Ian, There are quite a few fish in your pond and I would definitely recommend keeping as much ventilation in the pond as you can. Leave the aeration system running but move the diffuser stones to the shallower end of the pond or suspend them closer to the pond’s surface. Click here to read more about running aerators and de-icers during the winter.

  47. no sores or spots. i stop feeding in oct. they don’t seem stress. i think they will be okay . they have went down below.

  48. I live Indianapolis why are my koi swimming slow at top of pond
    I found one dead. This is December, they are not coming up for air. What’s wrong,pond is aeration

    • Hi Kim – Your fish will be swimming slow this time of year due to the colder water temperatures which slows down their systems. I’m sorry to hear that you lost one of your fish. Did you notice any sores or spots on the fish indicating disease or stress? Are you still feeding the fish? If you are still feeding you may want to stop now since temperatures are cold enough that they will no longer digest the food quickly. If you notice no other signs of stress in your other fish other than moving slow than they are probably just fine and adjusting to to the change in climate.

  49. Hi my family has a pond that is close to three car lengths long, a half a car wide and 60cm deep. We are in Australia, QLD, and its not heated or anything and we have pea green algae I bought 10 apple snails a few weeks ago and my parents expected more from them but I now about them taking there time with it and they are slower in cold months. So my question is my mum got NBS BIRU blue pond lake dye and wondering how it will affect the snails because I like them, I even named a few and I just don’t want them to die or something. Ow and they are about the size of an American quarter and smaller. If you can reply asap I would really appreciate it thanks.

    • Hi Mack – In general, it takes several months before snails begin to show a difference in a pond. For a pond your size, you did not add enough snails. We recommend 10 snails/50 square feet(~4.5 square meters). The use of pond dye will not affect the snails. They will continue to eat any remaining algae in the pond.

  50. I have a Pennington Octagon Window Pond that holds 108gal. It uses an All In One Pond Filtration system with a 5w UVC Lamp but my water turns green after just two days. What can I do to keep the water crystal clear like the All In One Pond Pump states it will do? Thanks

    • Hi Richard – Is it a new All-In-One unit? If not, have you replaced the UV bulb this year? We recommend changing the UV bulb once per year. Do you have any plants or fish in the pond? Is the pond in full sunlight? Ponds with fish and in full sunlight will have a harder time being crystal clear without the help of plants.

      • I just replace the UV bulb two weeks ago. I have two small Koi but no plants. The pond was in direct sunlight but now I’m attempting to shade it with an umbrella. If I’m understanding, I need to add plants and this will help control my algae issue? Thanks Again

      • Typically, we do not recommend having koi in your size pond. We recommend having 200 gallons per koi. Yes, plants will help to shade the water and reduce the nutrients that algae feed from. I would recommend floating plants such as Water Hyacinth or Frogbit. Shading with an umbrella will also help, especially during the hottest parts of the day.

  51. Hi Pond Guy, we inherited a 450 gallon water pond with a house purchase. The previous owners never kept up with it, and when we moved in we change the water completely. Since then we had a lot of rain, we have used an algae remover, sludge remover, beneficial bacteria, water clarifier, and it still full of algae and slush. We don’t know how often to use the products, the instructions on the bottles are not very clear or they contradict each other. We have three fish and we are worried we will poison them, can you help?

  52. Hi Pond Guy. I have been having a “water loss” problem with one of my ponds in eastern PA. I have 1 pond at a higher level and one at a lower level in my property with a waterfall in between. My issue is that the top pond seems to lose water during the winter months and early spring. Once it warms up during summer and the plants are fully grown the water loss stops and I have no issues all summer with water loss. It does not seem to be a hole in the liner as I do not lose water all summer. I don’t run the pump and still lose water. It also never seems to stop “level off” at a point were I could check for a leak. It just keeps losing water until the warmer months. This pond is roughly 10′ x 18′ and 3 ‘ deep. Any help or theories I could test would be appreciated.

    • Hi Steve – So, if you were to not run the pump, all the water from the top pond would drain into the bottom pond? How quick is the water loss? Do you grow plants in your waterfall/stream area? I’m almost thinking that if there are roots acting as barricade, they less water will make its way down into the bottom pond. Without this resistance, the water is just going down into the bottom pond.

      • No the water does not run into the bottom pond as they are not connected at all in the winter and early spring. I am not sure where the water is going to. The water level loss can be as much as an inch a day. There are no plants in the waterfall or near the waterfall opening.

      • That is quite interesting. It’s not uncommon to lose up 1″ per day during the summer due to evaporation.

      • Yeah I have asked several other pond owners and can not come up with a good explanation. I lose water during winter and spring and then it stays steady all summer. Is there an email I can send pictures to? Any theories I could test?

      • You can send photos to pondhelp [at] thepondguy.com. We’ll do our best to make suggestions. You can also try adding a bit of dye around the edges of the pond to see if any kind of path to a leaky spot. Here’s a blog on finding leaks. I realized today that my pond seems to have a leak. How could I find out?

  53. I live on a 3.5 acre pond that has developed a FA problem. My neighbor wants to apply aqushade but I am Leary as I do not want to hamper minnow and fish recruitment. How bad will aquashade affect the productivity of the pond?

    • Hi Rafe – Aquashade prohibits plant growth in deeper waters. Shallow water plants (<2 ft) will typically still get enough sunlight to grow. Aquashade will have little effect on floating Filamentous Algae. Are you using aeration or bacteria products?

  54. We recently bought a house with a fish pond. The previous owner said to just keep the pump and waterfall running all winter. However I noticed today with the unusual warm day that the ice is beginning to melt and there is a lot of water missing. I am assuming this is due to the waterfall. Also the pump seems to be having issues every other day with the ice and lack of water so I add water to the pump area until it seems to be running correctly. My questions are: can I add a lot more water to the pond so it’s back to the water level is should be? It’s supposed to freeze over tonight. Should I buy a de-icer or is it too late since it now midwinter in the Midwest? Any suggestions on what I should do would be helpful!

    • Hi Clare – Yes, I would fill up the pond. Otherwise, your pump could run dry causing you to buy a new pump. It’s not too late to add a de-icer. By adding a de-icer you can also shut off the waterfall. Here are some helpful articles to read:

      If you have additional questions, we are always a phone call (866-766-3435) or email away!





  55. When algae dies in the winter, does it re-sprout in the spring….i’m speaking of the dead algae.
    Also, some say dye doesn’t do any good in keeping algae away, other’s say it does work in stopping he growth.
    I’d rather have a blue tint to my pond and NO ALGAE!
    We have a 3/4 ac bass pond….I think I also put in to much 10-10-10- fert. 4 bags 160#…that seems to have started my algae….

    • Hi Ralph – It doesn’t really “re-sprout”. Any dead material (whether its algae, plants, fish, leaves) that is left in the pond to decompose will start a cycle. All of this dead material acts as fertilizer for a new algae bloom or new weed growth. There are algae cells in your water, an overabundance of them will cause the bloom. When using pond dye, you limit the amount of sunlight into the pond. Algae and weeds need sunlight to grow. You will never completely eliminate growth but you can put a rather large into it.

      As for the fertilizer, we recommend not using fertilizer in or near your pond. If you fertilize your lawn, you should leave about a buffer zone between edge of the pond and where you fertilize. Any fertilizer with Phosphorous (the middle number), will help in growing weeds and algae.

  56. my dog swims regularly in a pond that is treated with Aqua shade. She ingests quite a bit of water, should I be concerned about toxicity levels or any other reasons with this product?

    • Hi Marilyn – There are no restrictions regarding Aquashade. The only things you should watch out for are not letting him drink directly out of the container and wait 1-2 hours before letting him get into the water. This is let the dye disperse into the pond.

  57. Since the hot weather started, my fish pool has started a thick green slimey green on the surface during the day, sinks at night , the pool is clear underneath, I have a filter and a uv filter, the pool runs 24 / 7

    • Hi Roy – The heat does create algae very quickly. Unfortunately, a UV light doesn’t work on the type of algae you are experiencing. Contiue using bacteria products and keeping everything running (like you are) during this hot spell. Manually removing the algae from the pond will also help.

  58. I have a pond/lake about 8 acres in eastern PA it is all open but arond the edges the trees provide shade. It is about 25′ deep it has great bass fishing the biggest I caught was a 4lber almost every cast gets a fish and it also has sunfish catfish and possably carp a few were put in but if they survived is a mystery.biggest cat so far was 26″ and he had scars and bit barbels so there must be bigger ones in there my questions are should I add a few walleyes or stripers because there are thousands of small sunfish all around the edges and so many bass but they aren’t getting huge would the provide less fish more food and = bigger fish? Also can I add croppy or perch or trout ? The water is cold (fed by springs) not creeks would the veriety be benifshel? On the property there are also 2 other slightly smaller ponds with bass sunfish and perch should I try it in the other pond there I don’t fish as much first thank you for any advive it would be awesome, things to try things that will be bad leave it alone idk so please help thankyou

    • Hi Jason – We recommend a ratio of 3 prey fish to every 1 predator. Prey fish include perch, hybrid bluegill or redear sunfish. Predators are large mouth bass or walleye. If you have an abundance of prey fish, you can add more large mouth bass or walleye. Trout are going to be iffy. I would recommend speaking to a pond expert in PA that can determine whether trout are going to be ok in your pond. Penn State Extension and Pennsylvania Fish & Boat Commission have quite a bit of information out there specific to PA ponds. They have numbers to call and speak to someone who can walk through your pond stocking questions. Below are some links you may find helpful.

      Pennsylvania Fish & Boat Commission
      Fish for Pennsylvania Ponds
      Management of Fish Ponds in PA

  59. i put a dye in my pond, it was blue, the water brown, (muddy)
    (new pond) not it’s turned the water a green.
    If I used your blue dye u sell , will it turn the green to blue?

    • Hi Ralph – With a new pond, it’s really hard to say what color the water will turn with the addition of dye. Because you previously used blue, it will probably turn a similar color until the pond has a chance to settle.



      • Hi Greg – In large ponds, pond dye helps to reduce the amount of sunlight going into a pond. It helps control algae and weed growth. Algae does not always die in the winter. We see quite a few algae blooms in the winter months. Just a day or 2 of warm weather is enough to spark a bloom in large ponds.

  60. Hello. Really enjoy the blog…lots of great info here.

    I bought a house on 23 acres in central Missouri five years ago. It has a pond which I estimate to be between 3/4 to one acre in size. The year after I moved in it was taken over by duckweed. I went to the farmstore and they gave me Tsunami DQ. Although it kills the visible duckweed, it continues to return with a vengeance. Re application just continues the cycle and costs me 300 dollars (minimum) a year. Mid-summer comes and there is no stopping it.

    The pond is a focal point from our deck out back and the duckweed makes the beautiful pond look like a swamp. I put in five grass carp (after checking Mo laws) and still nothing. It has already this year covered the edges of the bank as I type this entry. Any ideas?

    • Hi Wade – Grass Carp typically take 1-2 years before you will notice less vegetation in your pond. Do you have an aeration system in your pond? Duckweed prefers to grow quiet, undisturbed water. Aeration Systems give the water enough agitation that duckweed is kept to a minimum. We offer a free mapping service for our aeration systems. Just give us a call at 866-766-3435.

      The other product to consider is Sonar AS. Sonar AS is a season long herbicide that will kill duckweed and many other common pondweeds.

      • I do not have an aereation system. The pond has pretty good flow in/out. Are you saying that the Grass Carp may be an effective tool to rid the pond of duckweed? It seems everyone around me claims that is how they keep their duckweed down.

        Will the Sonar KILL the duckweed in my pond and possibly rid it until it is carried back in later or will I have to reapply every year?

        Thanks, Appreciate the info.

      • Hi Wade – Yes, grass carp can be an effective tool to rid ponds of duckweed, but like I said, it can take up to 2 years before that happens. Yes, Sonar will kill the duckweed and then prevent growth for the season. Additional applications will need to be made in following years. Please note, if you have any outflow, Sonar will not be as effective. We also recommend using Pond Dye to protect the active ingredients for degrading. Pond Dye also helps you to determine the amount of dilution is happening in your pond.

  61. I had a successful summer with my pond this past summer. I just can’t sit back and let my plant life die and then start all over again next year. I bought an inflatable pool, 8′ feet around. I’ve brought in most all the plant life. I have 5 tropical Lilly plants & all of them have 4 blooming flowers. I have many grow lites on them. I have a filtering pump & a fountain pump circulating the water. I bought some new koi and put them in also. So far so good.
    Is there anything that you can suggest to give these plants a chance. I have been told that this probably won’t work but I still want to try.
    This pool is in a heated garage & I have a heater & a thermometer to manage the water. No chemicals yet.
    THANKX. Jim. 🙂

    • Well, you know that your plants need sunlight, nutrients and water to survive. If you plan on keeping your plants active and alive you will have to provide ample amounts of sunlight (most likely from grow lamps) and regularly dose the water with liquid fertilizer. You can also try to create a mini ecosystem by moving some of your fish into the indoor pond as they contribute to the nutrient load…they however will increase the need for aeration, circulation and may outproduce your plants filtration capacity.

  62. Me and my wife have a 9,000 gallon pond with 18 koi fish. Our pond was very clear over the winter seasons by simply adding a cup or two of baking soda. When summer came it turned green (Swamp green). We have two 4 ft. water falls that give a lot of flow and circulation along with an assortment of plants for oxygen. I clean out the filters about 2 or 3 times a week but is still stays green. I am so lost on how to turn it nice and clear again! Advise? Please?

    • While baking soda may have kept your water clear over winter, it does nothing to break down the organic debris that are left to accumulate. Ponds have a habit of greening up coming out of winter as the cooler water temperatures have done away with most of your organic eating beneficial aerobic bacteria. Also, regularly cleaning out your biological filters means you are cleaning away any beneficial bacteria that may have formed. There a couple of things you can do to keep your pond clean and clear for your spring transition.

      1) When water temperatures drop below 50 degrees, apply a cool water bacteria like Pond Logic Seasonal Defense. These guys stay active throughout the cooler months to help break down debris and remove organics.
      2) When you do your spring start-up, do an initial cleaning and inspection of your biological (pressurized / waterfall) filter media, add some PL Gel to your filter pads to inject bacteria, and leave them be so they can collect bacteria colonies. If you are sucking up a lot of algae & debris that clog the media pad, cover your pump with a PumpBuddy pre-filter to catch it before it makes its way to your media pads.
      3) Shade your pond. Your water is typically clear coming out of Winter. This allows the sun to shine right to the bottom of your pond which stimulates weed and algae growth. Install shade structures (plants, trees, decor, etc) around the pond to limit sun exposure, or add some Pond Logic Pond Shade to the water to give it a sun-restricting tint.

      To help get your pond back into shape faster, you will want to perform a 15-20% water change to remove some of that green water and organic debris. Refill your pond and, if you have fish, add some Stress Reducer PLUS to neutralize your tap/well water. Once your water temperatures are above 50 degrees again you can switch back over to a warm weather bacteria like Nature’s Defense which is included in the DefensePAC along with your other pond maintenance products.







      ALSO AN (18 FT) WATER FALL !!! DEPTH (18 ) INCHES – (5 ) FT.

  63. Over night, something came to my pond and ate fourteen of my fish! What do you think came? I feel like it’s a raccoon or cat, but I really don’t know! How can I prevent this, and who do you think did this?

    • Raccoon are common nighttime predators but we would be at best guessing without more details. Pond netting works well to keep a wide variety of predators out of your pond. Fish shelters will also give your fish a place to hide from predators. Since your pond seems to be a nighttime target, installing a few Nite Guard Solar units should do the trick. We know it is hard to tell, but look for prints or animal droppings to help I.D. your predator.



  64. hello pond guy,
    we have a 1100 gallon pond with 7 smal koi. the pond measures 12 ft by 6 ft by 2 ft deep. We have finally gotten the pond correct with all filters, aeration etc…we did put salt in the pond about a month ago for issues we had and treated the pond due to a very sick fish we had to remove from pond. all the other fish are fine now. my question now is we just reciently had a large amount of rain. does rain affect the water conditions and should we add a little more salt? how do i test the amount of salt that is possibly still in the pond. do not want to over do the salt. do they make a salt tester ? thank you so much in advance. also we are using a pool filter/ pump in the pond and since we added it the water is sooo clear and all water tests are perfect(before the rain of course).

    • Hello Lynn,

      Yes the rain water can dilute the salt level in the pond. We finally offer a salt test meter that can help you out with the task at hand: http://www.thepondguy.com/product/3609

      It resembles a large glass thermometer. You simply toss it in the water and it will float at a certain height (depending on the level of salt in the water). Whatever marking the water level is at will be your measured salt level.

      Be careful with the pool filter. Most of them use sand which we strongly advise against. The reason being that as debris get trapped in the filter’s sand, the water will start to channel and can become trapped in “pockets”. These pockets will hold water and let it stagnate which is a perfect breeding ground for disease. Sand filters are great for catching debris but they are only practical for pools because you use chlorine and other chemicals to kill all of the bad stuff in the water. You can’t do that in a pond without killing all of your plants and fish.

      If the filter uses beads you are ok. High end koi ponds regularly utilize bead filters. They work the same way as sand but allow for easy flushing/cleaning of the bead media to release trapped debris.

  65. I somehow recieved your catalog in the mail; was very surprised to see you have a product which removes muck from the pond. I will admit I’m still skeptical. I have about a 1 acre pond; over the yrs have noticed the muck build up on the east end. thought I had to drain it an dredge it. If your product works I will be a very happy dude. I know nothing on pond maintenance; have used grass carp and copper sulfate in past for weed control. Pond is spring fed; water level is pretty constant even during hot summers.

  66. I have a half acre pond, everything was going good for about two years. Then my pond started having a green slime over the top of it. The slime looked thick but its not. I have about 2000 catfish in there and they started dying. I lost about 100 so far. I feed them every day with about 5 lbs of food. What could be wrong with them?

    • From the sounds of it you may have a lot of organic waste in your pond that have been accumulating in your pond for two years. All of those fish and the daily helpings of fish food means there is a lot of fish waste in the water. That waste accumulates and turns into algae food and parts of that waste can start harming your fish in high concentrations. To help improve your pond you will want to eliminate some of that waste and create a balanced environment. The best way to go about this is to install an aeration system to get a lot of air into the pond and circulate the entire water body. The oxygen will help natural aerobic bacteria eat up some of the decaying organic buildup in the pond. If you can help it try to limit your feedings to once a week so they are not creating as much waste. This will give you an opportunity to catch up and you don’t have to worry about your fish starving as they will find bugs and other things to munch on if they get hungry. Also, you will want to add more beneficial bacteria to help break down all of that accumulated muck and dissolved organics in the water. Pond Logic offers a package of the products called the ClearPAC you would want to add to your pond to balance the water out. Since you have catfish I would suggest either buying a ClearPAC without Algae Defense or testing your carbonate hardness before treating with Algae Defense to make sure it doesn’t bother your fish.

  67. How do I get rid of a blue herion coming to my pond? It ate up all my fish I think.

    • Hi John,

      Heron Decoys work well as long as they are not placed during mating season and are moved often.




  68. Is Karmex unsafe for use in a pond where kids are swimming? Also, if it is safe, what is the wait time before they can go in?

    • Hi Nancy,

      This product is not approved for aquatic use and should not be used under any circumstances for ponds. If you are looking to treat algae or weeds try an aquatic approved chemicals like Algae or Pond Weed Defense. Neither of these products have swimming restrictions though I always reccomend to wait 24 hrs so you are not in direct contact with concentrated chemical.

  69. I need to reduce the algae Chara from swimming ares and reduce the muck. Do algeasides ship to Vermont? If not can you ship to NY or MA? I have close relitives that I could drive to to pick up a delivery.

    • Hi Cherie,

      We can ship to Vermont. Would reccomend Algae Defense for algae pending you do not have koi or trout and Pond Clear and Muck Away to reduce the muck in the pond.

  70. I noticed your truck and service people working on a pond near my home and stopped to talk with them. I was ecstatic to hear about the company! I’ve been trying to get answers about pond maintence for years. I’m looking forward to a response to my email to schedule an appointment. Based on the various information on this blog, it looks like I found the right company to help me. Thanks!

  71. Hello Pond Guy. Great Website you have here. I have just a couple of questions. I have a pond that is 95′ x 65′ and 5 feet average depth. I have cattails along one edge of the pond. The other day I went out and pulled the dead growth from the stalks. The growth seperated from the stalks right at the water surface. Is this method acceptable or should I cut the Cattails further under the water? Also what product do you reccommend to treat a pond this size to get rid of the muck caused by leaves and such. My pond has a cascading waterfall stream that empties into it. I have 3 SLV-56 pond pumps that take a suction on the pond via skimmers and it just recirculates, but I do have algae problems sometimes. I currently am using aquashade to help. Any comments or help is appreciated.

    • Hi Barry,

      Any of the cattail stems that remain in the pond will just continue to break down. It sounds like you removed the majority of the dead debris so now its just a matter of visual satisfaction. In reading the description of your pond, just to be sure are these cattails that you have planted in a lined pond or are they growing freely in an earth bottom? To treat the muck in a pond that size I would use Muck Away or Pond Clear natural bacteria.

      • Hi,
        My pond is a lined pond. I raked most of the muck away from the bank however there is a small amount of muck stuck to the rocks. You can see a pic of my pond at the following website. http://www.zillow.com/homedetails/5411-74th-Ave-NE-Marysville-WA-98270/38517909_zpid/

      • We have 2 lined ponds, one is 250k gallons and the other is 275k gallons. One is spring fed, and the other we route water to from April/May to October. We had been good about keeping the cattails down until about 2 years ago when we weren’t able to treat the cattails with Rodeo. They took off last year, but after the winter it seems that all have died and now we just have a bunch of dead cattails. Can we just rake the dead material without hurting the pond liner any more?

        Also what would you suggest to use to clean up the vegetation that grows (cattails and other), but is safe for wildlife.

      • You said your pond is lined. Are the cattails growing on top of the liner, before the liner starts or are they pushing through the liner? Try using a rake with plastic tines instead of metal to avoid punctures. You can use bacteria products like Pond Logic® MuckAway™ and PondClear™ to help digest and remove dead organic debris. Both products are natural and wildlife friendly.

  72. I have 1 acre pond. My question is this. I have bass- blueGil and crappy in the pond, I recently was told to put catfish in to help with keeping the pond clean. How many and will this help? The pond is 80% better since adding airation, twilight blue dye and raking many loads of weeds and grass. I plan on adding muck away and twightplus this spring

    • Hi Peggy,

      Many pond owners do have catfish however aeration, dye and bacteria to remove muck deposits will provide more of an impact on your pond that what the catfish could nibble away at. A large amount of catfish will also stirr up the clay or sand in the bottom and actually cause the pond to become cloudy.

  73. I have what I think are bloodsuckers in my small preformed pond. I have not noticed them attacking the fish but these little red worm like critters with sucker mouths are visible on things I see in the pond including the filter system. They cling to surfaces and are difficult to dislodge. I will be taking my fish out for overwintering in another tank but don’t want to transfer these little creatures. I will be draining and cleaning the inground pond but how can I prevent these little creatures from showing up again next year and do they overwinter somehow in the water plants or in the ground where they may re-enter the pond next spring? Could they be attaching themselves to the fish gills? How do I safely eradicate them? Yuck!

    • R Marq,

      What you are describing are leeches. There are a wide range of leeches with various sizes and not all are parasites. If the leeches are attached to your fish, this may cause a problem. The leeches can leave wounds, where they were attached. These wounds then could harbor bacteria and/or fungi, thus increasing the risk of a secondary infection. Plants in the pond will also harbor leeches and is often the way that they enter the pond. Fish will enjoy feeding on the leeches if they are accessible to the fish. If the pond is drained and let to dry out it will kill the leeches. Remember that plants in the pond may be the harboring leeches so check them thoroughly. Since you are draining the pond and cleaning it you should be able to gain control. Once you refill your pond in the spring, allow it to stand for 5 – 10 days (with the filters running) so the whole system is cleansed thoroughly. Keep an eye on your fish during their indoor season for any signs of the leeches on the fish.

      Another way to remove leeches is to make a leech trap. You can create a leech trap by:
      1.) Take a container with a lid, such as a plastic deli container or coffee can.
      2.) Poke holes in all sides of the container from the outside in, that creates a burr in the inside of the container.
      3.) Put some raw meat, liver works well is not expensive.
      4.) Put the lid on and submerge it completely in your pond. Adding a few rocks helps to have it sink. Attaching a string or
      some method for retrieving the container.
      5.) Leave in pond for several days to a week
      6.) Remove the trapped leeches from the container and repeat the process.

      This method will cause no harm to your fish and has been found effective at removing leeches.

  74. We have a pond 10 feet long by 6 foot wide and 18 inches deep. There is a water fall on each end. The water is clear but we get green slime on the rocks and it will turn to black slime
    We have used Muck buster on the rock that helps for a few days then it is back.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    • Diane,

      Algae is able to grow in your pond due to a build up of nutrients in your pond. Using beneficial bacteria, such as Nature’s Defense, helps to reduce the overall amount of nutrients in the pond. That in turn, reduces the amount of nutrients that are available for algae growth. Plants are also an excellent filters for your pond as they draw on the nutrients for their food source. If you are looking for season long pond care, you might want to check out our DefensePac.

  75. Hi there pond guy,
    I’m a member of a Labrador Retriever club near Fargo, ND. We have a good deal of water to train our retrievers in, however within the past few years, excessive weed growth has become a problem with keeping the ponds clear and swimable by our dogs without them returning with 5 extra lbs of material hanging on them. Here are a couple google links to our grounds.

    Much discussion has been made about controlling that weed growth next season in the spring and would like a recommendation as to what application you would recommend. Not the entire area would need to be treated as there are some very large areas of water in our ponds that are very deep while other areas are only 5-6 feet deep.

    One consideration that was given to us was the use of Karmex (Carmax)? However recent reading has identified that product as possibly harmful to humans and animals coming in contact with it. Also, any application that has a faster recovery time of being harmful to being safe would be great.

    Thanks for your help.
    tfeeken at gmail dot com

    • Troy,

      You are correct to be concerned about the toxic effects of Karmex ( Diuron) in a pond. Karmex is not an aquatic safe chemical.

      The pesticide, Karmex, which contains, Diuron, is not registered for aquatic applications.

      Here is an excerpt from our Pond Guy Blog and a comment from one of our treatment staff:


      justinmcleod, on March 27, 2009 at 9:40 am Said:

      Yes there are long term problems with this! Karmex (Active ingredient: Diuron) is an extremely bad chemical to use in your pond. Not only is very illegal to use in and around your pond, it is hazardous to your health as well! Karmex has been shown to cause cancer, and is very capable of entering the groundwater that runs underneath the pond causing problems with the neighbors as well.

      The biological effect is substantial. Karmex will kill almost every plant touching the pond. While this seems like a great idea, the problem lies in the few things that survive. These survivors are extremely hardy, and honestly if Karmex wouldn’t kill them, nothing will. Eventually these plants will take over the pond, and there is not much you can do to stop it.

      Karmex is a soil sterilant that was designed to kill farm fields where no chance of runoff will occur. Sadly, many small stores and elevators sell it as a pond product, not knowing how extremely bad this chemical is for humans and the environment.

      Use Algae Defense for Filamentous Algae, provided that you do not have Koi or Goldfish in your pond and Cutrine Plus Granular to treat a form of algae called Chara. I have provided a link to our web site for these items. http://www.thepondguy.com/category/algae-control-pond-and-lake-aquatic-weed-algae-control

      There are no water use restrictions and these chemicals would be safe for your dogs. Treating for Chara in the spring is more advantageous, as Chara develops a calcification as the season progresses. Treatment is more effective when the Chara is supple and first emerges in the spring. Water temperatures should be 55 degrees to treat. Always treat first and rake to remove dead plant material second. Caution must be taken when treating ponds with fish and no aeration. Decaying plant matter depletes the oxygen in the water when the algae is dying. In this case, treat only a fourth to a third of the pond, allowing 10-14 days in between treatments. I have provided a link to our Pond Guy Blog with information on algae treatment.


      Coontail, or sometimes called hornwort, is a dark olive-green, rootless submerged perennial plant that often forms dense colonies. Leaves are relatively stiff, whorled with many forks and small teeth along one edge. The tips of branches are crowded with leaves giving it a “Coontail” resemblance. Coontail reproduces by seeds and fragmentation.

      Submerged portions of all aquatic plants provide habitats for many micro and macro invertebrates. These invertebrates in turn are used as food by fish and other wildlife species (e.g. amphibians, reptiles, ducks, etc.). After aquatic plants die, their decomposition by bacteria and fungi provides food (called “detritus”) for many aquatic invertebrates. The fruits of Coontail are consumed by ducks and it is considered a good wildlife food.

      I have provided a link to our web site with a description of Coontail and chemical choices for control. http://www.thepondguy.com/category/109

      Please call us if you have additional questions, so we may further discuss the options with you. You may also send us photos of the weed and/or algae that you are dealing with at: mrwig@thepondguy.com

      • what can/should you do if you know that Karmex has been used in your pond?
        also; how long until it is safe for swimming?

      • Hi Bryan – Because Karmex is not labeled for Aquatic use, there is no known safe zone or time period lapse to know when the chemical has dissipated from the water column. Water tests can be done to determine the amount of Karmex left in the water but those can be expensive and hard to come by. Here is the Material Safety Data Sheet for Karmex. I would recommend calling DuPont 1-800-441-7515 to see if you can get more information on the safety of using your pond.

        For our readers – Karmex is NOT labeled for use on aquatic vegetation. It is against federal law to use any chemical in a way not intended on the label. Karmex is very dangerous to aquatic life and your pond’s ecosystem.

  76. i have a pond with a filter after a rain it turned dark brown and i was wondering if there is a chemical that will clean it up without hurting the fish or plants ? any ideas .

  77. Can we use a pool filter on a koi pond with a bottom drain to circulate the water and clean botton waste?
    I have had a pond for a long time when we moved I put in a 40 x 50 pond with one water fall and filter, I’m adding another water fall and would like to use the pool filter system. Also on a bottom drain would it pull in the river rock that I have on the bottom of the pond?

    • Hi Sandy,

      Pool filters work a little differently then pond filters. Pool filters are usually sand filters and are designed to polish water that is already clean. With a pond you need a filtration system that contains lots of surface area that natural bacteria can cling to. The bacteria that live in the filter are what actually maintains your pond. You can still use a bottom drain though if you would like.


    • Hi Jean,

      Treating muck will greatly help the health of the pond. We have a product is the same as Muck Away but the dosage is geared for a pond your size. The product is called Muck Defense.

  79. Your email address has been changed in our database. Thanks!

  80. Thank you for having a blog where I can get great information. I have learned more today then I have learned in the 5 years we have had our pond.

    I am anxious for my order so I can get our pond clean and clear like it was when it was new. Thanks again.

  81. I’ve been “feeding” the bass, bluegill and catfish in my pond with minnows from a nearby creek. Once a day from April – June, I’ll drop 2-3 dozen minnows into my 1 acre pond. Are there any concerns in doing this?

    • Bob Razem,

      There is no problem at all with feeding your bass, bluegill and catfish with minnows. Actually when we hold our Semi-Annual Fish Day at our retail store, we recommend getting minnows when stocking your pond. They reproduce quickly and keep the fish feed well. The only thing I don’t know, is the source of where your minnows come from. As long as your source (creek) has no issues than you should be fine. Ours come from a fish hatchery, so we have minimal concerns. Hope that helps answer your question. Thanks for commenting!

      • there may be a problem with collecting minnows from a local creek besides the obvious one of pollution; many counties have laws protecting aquatic life and special permits maybe required to capture fish.

  82. Bland,

    Here’s a question for you, how much Crystal Blue are you using and how big if your pond?

    The Pond Guy

  83. I have a pond and I put Crystal Blue in it to have the water a nice shad eof blue and it becomes green-very green..What should I use to have the clear blue?

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