Algae tends to grow all year long – even in cold temperatures when ice covers your pond.

Pond & Lake Q & A

Q: The weather is getting colder, so can I still treat my pond with chemicals or natural bacteria? – Sara in Washington

A: Algae tends to grow all year long – even in cold temperatures when ice covers your pond. Given the right mix of nutrients, carbon dioxide and sunlight, these little photosynthetic, autotrophic compounds will flourish – regardless of the temperature or time of year.

Whether you can treat the pea soup or filamentous algae depends on the water temperature in your lake or farm pond. When the underwater thermometer drops below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the effectiveness of both chemicals and natural bacteria begins to drop. So to get the most for your money, we recommend dosing your pond or lake with one of these methods in the fall before the winter chill hits:

Treat with Chemicals: As long as your water temperature is about 50 to 60 degrees F, you can use algaecides, like Pond Logic® Algae Defense® (or Hydrothol if you have koi or goldfish in your pond), to help with late-season algae blooms. Warning: If your lake is stocked with trout, test your carbonate hardness before adding Algae Defense®. If your Water Hardness Test Kit reads less than 50 parts per million (2.79 degrees of hardness), it could be toxic.

Add Some Shade: Regardless of your water temperature, you can also add pond dye to shade your pond or lake during the winter. Throughout the pond industry, experts use dye to minimize the amount of sunlight that reaches the depths of ponds and lakes. This can prevent algae from photosynthesizing – and limit its growth.

Treat Naturally: Beneficial bacteria, like Pond Logic® PondClear™, are also most effective when temperatures are above 50 to 60 degrees F. When used correctly, they will help to keep your pond crystal clear.

POND TALK: Have you experienced a late-season algae bloom in your lake or pond? What did you do to control it?

]]> http://blog.thepondguy.com/2009/11/05/treating-ponds-in-winter-pond-lake-q-a-%e2%80%93-week-ending-november-7th/feed/ 6 thepondguy Algae tends to grow all year long – even in cold temperatures when ice covers your pond. http://blog.thepondguy.com/2009/09/03/how-do-i-control-floating-and-bottom-growing-algae-in-my-lake-pond-lake-q-a-%e2%80%93-week-ending-september-5th/ http://blog.thepondguy.com/2009/09/03/how-do-i-control-floating-and-bottom-growing-algae-in-my-lake-pond-lake-q-a-%e2%80%93-week-ending-september-5th/#comments Thu, 03 Sep 2009 19:08:26 +0000 thepondguy http://blog.thepondguy.com/?p=981 ]]>

No Algae Here!

Pond & Lake Q & A

Q: How do I control floating and bottom-growing algae in my lake? – Tom in New York

A: Whether it’s floating or submerged, algae can turn a lake into a green mess in no time. It’s unsightly, it’s sometimes stinky and in extreme cases, it can cause a fish kill. The good news is that algae can be controlled no matter what time of year. It starts with controlling the population and ends with a long-term management plan.

Before we dive in, it’s important to understand the difference between algae and weeds. The term “algae” refers to a wide range of single and multi-celled organisms that live in the water and metabolize carbon dioxide into oxygen via photosynthesis, just like plants. They differ from plants or weeds in that they don’t have true leaves, roots or stems.

In lakes and ponds, the most common varieties of algae include: Green floating algae that creates a “pea soup” appearance; Chara or Stonewort, which are a bottom-growing, seaweed-looking type that can be mistaken for weeds, and string or filamentous algae, which are actually long strings of algae connected together.

Sometimes, pond and lake owners may mistake duckweed for floating algae, but if you look very closely, you’ll find that it’s actually duckweed or watermeal. Check out this blog entry to learn more about controlling this invasive weed.

Population Check

If your pond is coated in pea soup or the bottom is carpeted in Chara or string algae, you can knock back the population with a chemical herbicide like Algae Defense®. It provides quick results and it’s formulated to get a pond under control – especially during the hot summer months. Do not use if your pond or lake is stocked with koi or goldfish. If your pond has trout, check your carbonate hardness with a water hardness test kit, like the Laguna® Quick Dip Multi-Test Strips, and make sure the carbonate hardness is above 50 parts per million (ppm) before using Algae Defense®.

Long-Term Strategy

Algae Defense® by Pond Logic® will solve a crisis, but to keep your pond or lake looking clean and clear, you’ll need to be proactive and develop a plan to manage the algae. The most successful approach centers on cutting off the algae’s food supply – nutrients.

Nutrients can come from a wide variety of sources, like grass clippings, twigs, trees, fish waste, yard and farm fertilizers and runoff. As these nutrients break down, they produce ammonia, which triggers the nitrogen cycle. Nitrifying bacteria surround the ammonia, turning it into nitrites and then into nitrates (nutrients) – which then feed the algae.

So, how do you reduce the nutrients in your pond?
Try these tips:

That green gunk can be controlled in your pond or lake. It just takes a little planning and some proactive management. When you see the results, it’ll be worth it!

POND TALK: When was your worst algae bloom and how did you control it?

Picture of a bed of chara/algae

Pond & Lake Q & A

Q: How do I get rid of a chara infestation?
- Dave of Ohio

A: During the early beginnings of spring have you ever took that first stroll around the pond and discovered an awful musky smell that filled the air? That smell is chara, and it seems to take off like a wildfire during the early spring. Did you know that if you rake it out before treating it, you risk spreading it even more! So what do you do? The proper way to get rid of chara is the following:

First: Treat the chara using an algaecide
Since chara is a form of algae, using an algaecide such as Algae Defense or Hydrothol is a great way to treat for the chara. Algae Defense is best used
when there are no koi, goldfish or trout in the pond. All other fish are fine. Also there are no water use restrictions with Algae Defense. If your pond does contain koi, goldfish or trout then using Hydrothol is the way to go. The only downside with Hydrothol are its water use restrictions. Read
more about those restrictions here.

Second: Wait 10 to 14 Days
The important step here is the wait the 10 to 14 days to make sure the chara has died from the algaecide treatment. Like I mentioned eariler, if you rake while the chara is still alive, it can spread.

Third & Final: Rake out the chara
Use the Airmax Pond & Beach Rake to rake out the chara from the pond. The Pond & Beach Rake includes a 25′ rope so you can throw the rake out into the pond and tug it in. I would rake the same area 2 or 3 times to make sure you removed all of the chara. Chara, fortunately is very easy to rake off of the bottom.

The other hidden benefit of raking chara, is the removal of the black muck on the bottom of the pond. This muck is a nutrient source for weeds and algae so removing it will help you that much more at maintaining the pond. Once finished with the raking, using MuckAway Pellets will help breakdown any future muck that may accumulate.

Picture of a Dog in a Pond

Pond & Lake Q & A

Q: I have a pond that the dogs swim in almost everyday when the weather is warm. It is overrun with Algae. Is there a chemical I can use to kill the algae but not affect the dogs? – Corinne of Ohio

A: Another Great Question! I talk to quite a few pond owners who have pets that love to play in their pond and this is always a concern when it comes to treating a pond with algae. The answer is yes, there are treatments you can use to kill the algae and not harm any pets. One such product is Algae Defense.

Algae Defense is a liquid algaecide that has no “water use” restrictions such as irrigation, swimming & other recreational activities. We suggest to use Algae Defense in ponds that do not contain koi, goldfish or trout. They are very sensitive to this treatment.

If your pond does contain koi, goldfish or trout we would suggest to use a product called Hydrothol 191. The only downside are its restrictions. With dogs or other pets, we would suggest to keep them away from the pond for 7 days if possible.

Picture of Floating Algae

Pond & Lake Q & A

Q: I see some algae in my pond. Is it too cold to treat my pond at this point? – Jack of Ohio

A: Algae has a tendency to grow in colder temperatures even when there is ice covering your pond. To treat or not to treat really all just comes down to the temperature of the water. Algaecides, like Algae Defense (or Hydrothol if your have koi or goldfish in your pond), are most effective when water temperatures are above 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit. If you are living in the southern climates, the water temperatures may be already high enough for an algae treatment. As for the northern climates, it may be best to hold off until the water temperatures rise above the 50-60 degree Fahrenheit threshold.

Picture of chara, an erected form of algae.

Q: I have been treating for Algae/Chara about every two months throughout the summer although with fall approaching (and cooler temperatures) should I still be treating it or should I wait until spring? – Paul of Michigan

A: In general we suggest that you wait until water temperatures are above 50°F: Although the real answer is that you can treat Algae/Chara anytime it is actively growing. In most cases (in the Midwest) you can start treating algae as early as March or April and continue treatment through the month of October.

Treating for Algae/Chara: Chara, although it looks like a plant is actually just an erect from of Algae.

When treating for Chara and/or floating algae always take in to consideration the following:

• Benefits of Chara: Chara unlike planktonic and floating algae is not always an eyesore and can benefit your pond in many ways such as: naturally filtering the water, providing fish habitat, and preventing more aggressive plant grow. Chara can be selectively treated in swimming and fishing areas in larger bodies of water.
• Treatment Area: Only treat 1/3 of your pond at a time, waiting 7-10 days between treatments to minimize oxygen depletion caused by rotting vegetation.
  
• What Product Works Best: In almost every case we would suggest using liquid Algae Defense due to its cost and effectiveness. Although if your pond contains Trout, Koi or Goldfish you must test for hardness before any treatments. If the water hardness is not above 50ppm then Hydrothol 191 should be used to reduce the chance of a fish kill.
• The Best Time of Day For Treatment: Treat early on a calm sunny day; this will give you optimal conditions for your treatments to work.

Preventive Tips:

• Removing and/or raking dead Algae and Chara after a treatment (wait 5-7 days) can help prevent it from coming back in the future by removing excess nutrients.
• Always consider a proactive solution over a reactive one when possible consider aeration, natural bacteria and other alternatives for a long-term solution to your problems.

Picture of a Pond with an Abundance of Algae.

Q: I’ve treated my pond for algae with one of you Algae Defense, it works great although I have to do it almost monthly. Do you offer anything that would offer longer lasting results? – Jacob of Michigan

A: Algae Defense is meant to be used as a reset button providing quick results. Algae Defense is a great tool to get your pond under control especially during those hot summer months. The disadvantage is that the results are generally only short-term, because it only addresses the result of a problem and not the actual problem itself. To get the long-term results you’re looking for, you will have to take a different approach.

Think of it this way, you only use chemicals, when weeds and algae become a problem. This is a “reactive” approach. You need to think of your pond’s health proactively. Being “proactive” means treating for the problem not just the result of the problem.

Algae and pondweed growth are promoted by two basic things, sunlight and nutrients.

Sunlight can only be controlled by shade trees, surface structure and/or plants or by adding a pond dye such as Nature’s Blue or Black DyeMond.

Nutrients: Nutrients can come from many things such as, grass clippings, twigs, trees, fish waste, yard and farm fertilizers, runoff, etc. The majority of nutrients, especially those that have come from organics decomposing, are found at the bottom of your pond in what is known as black “muck”. The rest of the nutrients are free floating in your waters column sometimes causing murkiness.

Nutrients can be greatly reduced by eliminating “point source problems” such as:

#1 - Leave a buffer area around the pond when you fertilize. Use fertilizers low in phosphorus and/or organic ones.

#2 – Rake your pond using a Pond & Beach Rake removing dead vegetation, leaves and other organics that will eventually decompose on the bottom.

#3 - The next best thing is to introduce an aeration system to your pond and following our proven 4-Step System.

Want to get rid of the Muck FAST? Use all natural, Pond-Clear Pellets. These pellets accelerate the decomposition of “muck”. Depending on the amount of nutrient intake your pond receives, Pond-Clear Pellets can eat up to 5 inches of “muck” per year.

Picture of Filamentous Algae in a Pond

Q: My pond was almost completely covered in algae earlier this month. With the advice of a local store, I treated my pond with an algaecide. Needless to say I suffered a terrible loss! What killed all of my fish? – Marie of Florida

A: More then likely your fish loss was due to oxygen depletion. It is very rare that an EPA registered “Aquatic Approved” chemical will cause a fish kill.

What causes oxygen depletion?
After a chemical application, algae and aquatic vegetation start to die and begin to decompose. The decomposition process requires great amounts of oxygen and can sometimes, like in Marie’s case, be harmful to fish. The chance of oxygen depletion is much greater when a pond is not maintained on a regular basis or when water temperatures are at their warmest such as the dog days of Summer. The warmer the water, the less oxygen it can retain.

How to treat your pond and keep your fish safe:
We recommend that you treat your pond in sections. The generally rule of the thumb is to split your treatment in to 3 parts or thirds. Treat 1/3 of your pond starting from shoreline working your way towards the middle. Allowing 5-7 days between treatments will greatly reduce, if not completely eliminate the chance of fish kill.

NOTE: Always follow the label rates on the container!

Reduce Oxygen Demand with an AIRMAX AERATION SYSTEM! Airmax Aeration adds oxygen to your pond reducing fish kills, while improving the overall health of your pond and fish.

ClearPAC - Season-Long Pond Care in One Convenient Package

Q: Is there any one product that I can use to get my pond cleared up? I have tried numerous products from my local feed store with little to no success. Please help! – Jason of Indiana

A: One of the best ways to maintain your pond all year long is to get a ClearPAC. The ClearPAC is a collection of products that come in one package designed to make the maintenance of your pond as simple as possible. The following is a list of the products that are included within the ClearPAC and what their purposes are:

Algae Defense – The Algae Killer*: Algae Defense is an algaecide that once sprayed onto algae, within hours the algae is dead. It is very fast acting. If algae is present in your pond, we recommend using Algae Defense to kill off the algae before starting the rest of the package.

Pond-Clear – The Natural Bacteria: Pond-Clear is one of the best products used in the market today to help keep your pond clean and clear. These easy-to-use water soluble packets, once toss into the water, go to work immediately to breakdown muck, remove excess nutrients and eliminate noxious odors. Pond-Clear will naturally improve a pond’s water clarity by attacking suspended organic waste. This powerful bacteria can breakdown as much as 5 inches of muck per year! We recommend using Pond-Clear every two weeks throughout the season when water temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Nature’s Blue – The Pond Dye: This super concentrated pond dye works great at giving your pond a long lasting natural blue color as well as filtering out sunlight. This quart is so concentrated that it is equal to many other pond dye gallons out on the market.

Nutri-Defense – The Eco-Enhancer: Nutri-Defense works to bind up excess nutrients and sinks them to the pond’s bottom to make them unavailable as a food source for algae. Nutri-Defense also helps stimulate the Pond-Clear natural bacteria. Once Nutri-Defense has settled the nutrients to the pond’s bottom, Pond-Clear goes to work to break them down further. Pond-Clear and Nutri-Defense are a fantastic “one-two punch” to keep your pond clean and clear.

The ClearPAC is a great way to keep your pond clean, clear and healthy all season. We always recommend to add an aeration system to help further enhance the performance of the ClearPAC. (Click here to read more about aeration). The ClearPAC comes in two different sizes, the 1/4 Acre ClearPAC and the 1/2 Acre ClearPAC. There is enough product to treat the ponds for up to 6 months!

*Algae Defense cannot be shipped to the following states: California, Connecticut, Maine, New Jersey, New York and Washington. Algae Defense will be omitted from orders going to these states.

Q: There is a brown rust-like film/oil slick covering my pond. Do you have an idea what this might be and how to get rid of it? - Several Customers

A: There are several things this could be: Algae, duckweed, watermeal or pollen.

Determining if Algae is a Problem: Filamentous Algae will float around the pond’s edges in mats while Planktonic Algae will make the whole body of water to look like a “pea soup” green color. If this is the case, using Algae Defense Algaecide will provide quick control. Follow up with Pond-Clear for long-term clear water.

Determining if Duckweed or Watermeal is the Problem: Duckweed and Watermeal are very rapid growers and will cover an entire pond if they get out of control. Looking to the pictures to the left, you can see that Duckweed is a small plant the size of a pencil eraser, while Watermeal is about the size of the tip of a pencil. If you determine that you have Duckweed or Watermeal, your only long-term option is WhiteCap Aquatic Herbicide. If you only require short-term control (3-4 weeks) for an event or party PondWeed Defense may be used.

Determining if Pollen is the Problem: What may look like a greenish, brownish algae, may actually be pollen. Pollen may even cause an oil-slick or film on the surface of the pond. There is no magic product that will give you a quick fix. Many times a heavy rain will settle it to the bottom. In many cases if your pond receives good circulation from an aerator or fountain you will not see pollen becoming much of a problem.