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Prepare Your Pond For Winter | Learning Center

As the days and nights stay to get chilly, you may want to start thinking about getting your pond in shape for the winter months. The longer you wait, the colder it will be to remove pumps, UV lights and pressure filters. Here are some simple steps to follow for shutting down your pond:

    1. Start with a basic cleanup. Vacuum out debris from the bottom of your pond and skim out any leaves or twigs. We recommend refraining from a full cleanout because it can cause too much stress on your fish before the winter months.
    2. Remove the following products from the pond and do not forget to blow out and cap your tubing:
    • All-In-One Filtration Units
    • UV Clarifiers (Remove the entire unit, not just the bulb.)
    • Pressurized Filters
    • Pumps (Keep in a bucket of water to keep seals lubricated. Store in an area that will not freeze.)
    • Ion Clarifiers
    3. Raise your aeration stones or plates. This keeps the water moving at the top of the pond but calm at the bottom for your fish’s winter hibernation. Bring your deicer out to the pond. Don’t turn it on yet but you will be ready for the first cold spell.
    4. Put a net over your pond when the leaves begin to fall. Remember to net out any leaves that may have fallen in.
    5. After the first frost, remove all tropical plants from your pond and cut dead vegetation off from any hardy plants.
    6. If your pump usually resides in your skimmer box, pump the water down just below the skimmer door or weir. This ensures water stays in your pond and not filling the skimmer box.
    7. As your water temperatures dip below 50°, begin to use Seasonal Defense®. Begin to feed your fish Spring & Fall Fish food at this time. When water temperatures drop below 40°, stop feeding your fish and discontinue using Seasonal Defense®.

Creating The Perfect Pond With UV | Learning Center

UV Clarifiers are designed to destroy the ultra fine planktonic algae that cause green water. When algae cells are exposed to the bulb’s ultraviolet rays, the radiation destroys the cellular wall of the planktonic algae. As a result, the tiny particles of dead algae clump together and are removed by your mechanical filtration system.

UV clarifiers are a great addition to a pond suffering from green water caused by full sun exposure or too many fish. Please note, UV Clarifiers do not affect string algae.

Be sure to pay attention to the flow rates listed on each particular UV filter. If your pump’s flow rate is higher than recommended, algae will not be exposed to the UV radiation long enough to damage the cell. Thus, rendering the UV filter virtually useless. By using a pump that is too large, you also run the risk of damaging the UV unit by creating too much pressure. If your pump is too small, you run the risk of the UV clarifier acting like a sterilizer. With slowly moving water, the UV bulb will kill both the algae and any beneficial bacteria that floats by.

While a UV clarifier can work wonders on your water garden it is only a patch to the real issue. Make sure you are properly maintaining your pond, using an adequate amount of filtration, keeping a low fish population, and utilizing your bacteria products.

Fish Health – The Basics On Preventing & Treating Illness | Learning Center


Keep your pond clean and healthy by providing adequate filtration, aeration, and regularly cleaning and adding beneficial bacteria to the pond. A DefensePAC® is a great tool to help maintain water quality and a ClearVac™ Pond Vacuum cleaning your pond easier and more enjoyable. When performing water changes use Pond and Fish Conditioner to detoxify any chemical or heavy metal contaminates in the water as well as reduce fish stress and improve their slime coat which makes them less susceptible to disease. Dosing your pond with Pond Logic® Pond Salt will also help improve their slime coat and gill functions further ensuring healthy and happy fish.
If your fish still manage to fall under the weather the will almost always show some inconsistency in their behavior that will give you a clue as to what is going on. When fish are stressed or ill they will tend to be lethargic and less social, often just floating in one area away from your other fish. If they have anchor worm you will see them rubbing on rocks or the wall of the pond which is known as flashing. You can also visually inspect your fish for signs of illness. Deterioration of their fins, mouth or gills can indicate poor water quality or parasites. Look for loose or odd looking scale formations and sores on the body of the fish.
There are three steps to follow to nurture your sick fish back to health:

  1. Since most illness is due to stress or water quality in their environment you will want to provide some temporary relief from the source. Start by performing a 25% water change in the pond to get some fresh water into the system. If only a few fish seem to be affected you may also choose to set up an isolation tank and treat just the affected fish. Next add salt and be sure both the pond or isolation tank has adequate aeration.
  2. Identify the fish sickness based on their symptoms. Take pictures, examine the fish for and cuts, redness or inflammation in the gills and record their habits. Once you’ve identified the symptoms you can choose the next course of action which may involve additional medications or treatments.
  3. Reevaluate your normal pond routines. Go back to see if there is anything you should change to prevent illness in the future. When dealing with sick fish it is always important to focus on preventing issues before they have a chance to ruin your ponding season so you can spend the majority of your season playing with your pets instead of playing doctor.

The Life Cycle Explained – Understanding The Changes In Your Pond | Learning Center

From small ponds to large lakes, all water bodies encompass an ever changing ecosystem struggling to find balance. To help you better understand the life cycle of your pond, we’ll break down the process into two basic stages:
Stage 1 – A freshly dug pond is free from weed and debris caused by wildlife, waste, plant decay and other organic material. The water is generally clean and clear and there is minimal algae and weed growth. New ponds typically remain in Stage 1 for 3 – 5 years.
Stage 2 – Over time organic debris begins to accumulate and the pond becomes overabundant with nutrients. These excess nutrients become an effective plant fertilizer, causing weeds and algae to grow prolifically. You may begin to notice emergent weeds, like cattails and shoreline grasses, growing along the shoreline and a foul smell emanating from the water. Pond owners tend to use reactive treatments like aquatic herbicides and algaecides during this stage to kill existing growth. These reactive treatments provide a temporary fix to weed and algae control. If left in the pond, the decaying plant material turns into nutrient-rich pond muck that continues to fuel weed and algae growth. The pond then enters a continuous cycle of reactive treatments, leaving you, the pond owner, to use chemicals to control growth.
Be Proactive – For long-term treatment, treat the source of weed and algae growth. Using beneficial bacteria, pond dye, and aeration can keep your pond clean and free of the organic debris that shifts your pond into Stage 2. Using the proactive approach to pond management can save you time, frustration and money by treating the source of pond weeds and algae.

Controlling Cattails – Reclaim Your Shoreline | Learning Center

Cattails and other emergent aquatic plants can add natural beauty to any pond or shoreline, but if left unchecked for too long, they can overtake these areas and create a maintenance nightmare. A consistent program is the most efficient way to combat excessive spread of unwanted weeds. Fortunately, there is a simple solution to keeping cattails in check. Follow these tips to maintain a pristine shoreline all season long.

Set Boundaries – Cattails are not all bad. They are nature’s solution to providing habitat for wildlife, preventing soil erosion and they make a great visual barrier to add some privacy to your pond. Like most things however, cattails are best in moderation. Highlight boundaries where you would like to contain cattails by using landmarks, rocks or other unobtrusive markers. Treat cattails that try to stray from these boundaries to keep their growth under control.

Spray Unwanted Growth – To maximize the effectiveness of your cattail treatments, wait until there is at least 12” – 18” of exposed growth to apply product. A systemic herbicide like Shoreline Defense® & Treatment Booster™ PLUS will kill the cattails down to the root to prevent the plant from re-growing. The roots of cattails are the most difficult part of the plant to kill. So, allow the mixture to absorb into the plant for one to two weeks. This will ensure the treatment gets into the root system. Do not try and stretch the application further than the instructions state. This will likely lead to unsatisfactory results and end up in more product used in the long run.

Remove Dead Cattails – Wait until treated cattails are brown and wilted to remove them from your pond. Cutting them down too early will prevent your chemical treatment from fully reaching and killing the cattail rhizome (root) resulting in a quick return of the weed. Don’t leave dead cattails, or any other vegetation, in your pond to decompose. This decomposition turns into nutrient-rich pond muck that fuels new weed growth. Tools like the Weed Cutter & Pond Rake exist to make the process as quick and simple as possible.

Retreat As Needed – Due to the fact that cattails have a robust root base, multiple treatments may be necessary to properly gain control. Once under control, they will make a nice addition to your landscape and encourage wildlife to call your pond home.

Aeration For ALL Seasons | Learning Center

Installing an aeration system in your pond or lake is key for creating the perfect pond whether you use your pond for swimming, fishing or just for looks. The benefits provided by bottom diffused aeration will keep your water clean, clear and balanced all season long.

Spring Head Start
The increased oxygen and circulation provided by spring aeration will help evenly warm the water body and encourage the colonization of beneficial aerobic bacteria. These bacteria are responsible for preventing muck and nutrient accumulation and maintain clear water.

Summer Perfection
By reducing nutrients in your water body, weeds and algae have less food available to grow and thrive in your pond. The circulation provided by summer aeration will prevent pond stratification and eliminate the risk of pond turnovers, protecting your game fish.

Fall Preparation
With excess leaves, dormant pond weeds and organic debris being introduced to your pond in the fall, your pond needs more help than ever breaking down waste and reducing pond muck. The boost in beneficial bacteria counts and exposure created by constant aeration helps rapidly reduce accumulated debris in your pond. The less organic debris left in your pond leading into the winter months, the better.

Winter Protection1
As organic debris decomposes in your pond, gases are released into the water column. When your pond freezes over in the winter, these gasses become trapped and begin to take the place of clean oxygen. If enough oxygen is displaced, your fish will suffocate resulting in a winter fish kill. Running an aeration system in the winter infuses fresh oxygen into your pond while maintaining an open hole in surface forming ice to release decomposition gases.

No matter the season, your pond will benefit from constant aeration. Even better; when you allow us to size and recommend an Airmax® Aeration System for your pond or lake, we guarantee the results.

1Note – While we always recommend running the aeration system year round, if there is a chance someone will be using the pond for recreation during the winter or simply venturing out onto the ice, we recommend turning off the system during the winter. The ice around the aerator opening may be thin and dangerous

Spring Cleaning – 10 Helpful Tips To Jump-Start Your Pond | Learning Center

As daylight hours get longer and the temperatures warm up, you want to start enjoying your water garden again.

First things first, decide whether you need a full pond cleanout. If you kept your pond clear last season and did basic maintenance tasks before the winter, you may only need to do a water change and some cleaning to get your pond in tip top shape. If not, a full spring cleanout may be the way to go. Here are 10 simple steps to get your pond ready:

  1. Inspect your pond. Check to see what affect the winter weather has had on the pond liner, skimmer or biological filter. Make repairs as needed.
  2. Make a water change and clean-up winter waste build-up. Use a skimmer net and pond vacuum to remove dead leaves, debris and muck that have accumulated in the bottom of the pond over the winter. Pond Logic® Oxy-Lift™ Defense® works great for lifting debris off rocks and bringing debris to the surface for easy removal. Water changes are also helpful in eliminating dissolved organics that have built up over the winter. Make a 15-25% water change over several consecutive days to reduce stress to your fish.
  3. Condition your tap water. When doing a spring start-up water change, don’t forget that you need to eliminate chlorine and chloramines found in municipal water with Pond Logic® Water Conditioner. Even small traces of chlorine will irritate fish and damage their gill tissue, and large amounts can be lethal.
  4. Start the biological filter. Clean or replace filter pads, seed them quickly with PL Gel and begin adding Pond Logic® Seasonal Defense® to boost biological activity. For longer life span filter pads, try using Matala® Filter Pads.
  5. Test pond water. It is not possible to know the condition of your pond water without testing. Using the Master Test Kit offers a quick and accurate way to evaluate pond water quality and stop problems before they occur.
  6. Inspect your fish. If you see torn fins, blood streaks and/or ulcers, Pond Fish Treatment is a great all-in-one product for both koi and goldfish treating bacterial infections and parasites.
  7. Feed your fish a low-protein food. As the temperature of your pond water approaches 40° F, your fish will start looking for food. Pond Logic® Spring & Fall Fish Food is recommended as a good wheat germ, low protein, high carbohydrate, vitamin-enriched diet, specially formulated for all pond fish when water temperatures are between 40-50° F.
  8. Provide your fish with essential electrolytes. Pond Logic® Pond Salt provides all the essential electrolytes fish need to stay healthy and vibrant. Pond Salt can also help to reduce the chance of parasites and disease by up to 80%.
  9. Care for pond plants. Root bound plants should be divided and re-potted. Fertilize plants with LilyGro™ to provide the essential nutrients for strong growth and early spring blooms. Adding floating plants such as Water Hyacinths or Water Lettuce will provide your pond with shade and remove excess nutrients reducing algae growth. It is also a great time to add Pond Snails to begin consuming algae keeping your pond clean. Don’t have any plants yet? Consider one of our Complete Plant Packages.
  10. Keep your water feature clean, clear and healthy all season. Digest sludge, reduce dissolved organics and keep you pond filter working its best with the all-in-one awarding winning package, the Pond Logic® DefensePAC®.

If a full pond cleanout is necessary, the following steps will help you get on track.

  1. Get a holding tank: Before you tend to your pond, have a holding tank ready for your koi and other fish. Kiddie pools are great for this! Make sure to house them using existing pond water and place a pond aeration kit in the tank to ensure oxygen levels remain high. Even though this is a temporary space for your fish, they may be startled by their new environment. It is always best to place some pond netting over the holding tank to ensure none of the fish jump out.
  2. Drain the pond: Once the fish are safely housed in their temporary holding tank, drain the pond with a pond pump and drain hose.
  3. Power wash: Power wash the rocks and remove any algae, muck and other debris build up. For stubborn debris that just won’t wash away, use Pond Logic® Oxy-Lift™ Defense® to take care the problem. Simply sprinkle over stubborn debris, wait 10 minutes and rinse away. We recommend rinsing and pumping out dirty water a few times to ensure a good cleaning.
  4. Make adjustments: At this point in the cleaning process with no water in the pond, it’s best to check for any rocks or plants that might need to be adjusted as some of the scenery may have been displaced during the power wash.
  5. Check the lights: This is great time to check any pond lights to ensure they are in working condition. Now is also a good time to add new pond lights if desired.
  6. Reconnect plumbing and filters: Reinstall any pumps, UV clarifiers, filters or spitters once the rest of the pond is clean, and get ready to refill and reintroduce your fish to your pond.
  7. Refill and re-acclimate: After you refill your pond, add Pond Logic® Water Conditioner to remove any chlorine and to detoxify heavy metals from the new water. Re-acclimate your fish to the new pond water by slowly adding some to their holding tank. We recommend using Pond Logic® Stress Reducer PLUS to your pond as well to help reduce any stress caused by transporting them.
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